Quote:
Originally Posted by FUNFER2
1" on the front brake, 7/8" on the rear and the 3/4 on the clutch.
What thickness then ?
Shouldn't we be concerned going too thin and warpage ?
A lot of new cars today have thin & cheap rotors and warping is a big problem.
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When you are using your car on the track, you have much more to worry about than warping. ... There are two opposing issues at hand regarding brake rotors. First, the act of slowing a high speed car involves converting the energy of motion (speed) into the energy of heat. That heat shows up in the brake rotor and other nearby components, and is dissipated mostly by air flowing around it. If you are on a track that requires frequent hard braking, the heat can build up faster than the air can take it away. In that case the rotor is the primary heat sink for holding the heat and can get very hot (i.e., glowing red). Repeated heat cycles can cause some rotors to crack, fail and come apart. For these reasons you may consider an especially heat resistant and massive rotor. Or you may need to change rotors frequently.
On the other hand, everything that was said before about large rotors requiring more power to accelerate and more stopping force to slow down is true too. So larger rotors make a race car slower. That is why many real racers have gone to expensive and lightweight carbon rotors. They give the best of both worlds on the track, but can be problematic during street use due to low temperatures.
My guess is that for your situation (i.e., an occasional track guy), you value safety and convenience above maximum performance and cost. In other words, you'd rather not be buying and installing expensive light-weight rotors on a regular basis. Therefore, I suggest you not worry too much about the weight of your rotors and get some that the manufacturer says can stand up well to occasional track days.