[madmaxx]

i redid them as the first time i was in a hurry. It is critical you read the instructions 10 times. It is key that when you do your adjustment you have the front pad touching the rotor. Mine wasn't even though my mounting holes were elongated. The elongation was not enough. i had to go another 1/8' inch. Once I did that I realized the pads are actuated from one side, in other words they don't clamp together evenly. To pacify this I adjusted the bracket again via the mounting bolts. This compensated for the pads being "wedged" shape when closed and for the most part made them even.

I double checked my two nylon nuts on gear shift and gearshift looseness. The only way in my opinion is to remove the seat.

Long story short 4 hours later I have it nailed with decent clearance .030" between rotor and pads. It pretty amazing zero holding power to the last click on the ebrake handle and it LOCKS UP!!!!!

In the end the pads are wear items. The caliper has the ability to float and the pads screws are spring loaded so the pads will touch off on the rotor at times.

In the end no mechanic is going to go through the process i did. If they did they would have to charge $400 in labor. Bottom line is if the factory didn't get it right the only hope is you. I have a 4 post lift I cannot imagine the nightmare of getting up and down a 100 times.