I started fitting my top and decided to post some progress photos on the process. I may eventually regret starting this as there is no guarantee this is going to end in success. But, I would rather give it a try myself than risk turning the car over to an unknown stranger.
I started out covering the rear deck - this was just the start. I eventually put about 3 layers of tape down around and over the studs (puncturing the tape to fit over them) and then layed towels down also.
These are the tools I used to install the lift-a-dot tabs. I understand there is a special tool that can be purchased to simplify this process but I didn't have any issues with using what I had. An X-acto knife with long, pointed blades was critical.
I read the assembly manual and special owners supplements on the top installation over and over and started by installing the first to dot fasteners right behind the door - at the corners of the top. A hole punch was used to cut the hole in the top, then the bottom plate was layed over the holes as a template and taped in position and the X-acto knife used to cut slits for the tabs. After installing the top and bottom plates I used a punch and small tack hammer to preen the cabs tight. The dot on the tab goes towards the edge of the top.
I installed my top bows and stretched the top over it and snapped down one side and went to the other - but no matter how tightly I pulled, the closest I could get was about 4 inches to the stud. At this point the owners supplemental instructions say to cut some off of the bow where they connect at the center of the car. But, fortunately before I did this I gave Jack at ERA a call. Boy, am I glad I did. He passed on a lot of information that isn't in either the manual or supplemental information and in some cases what he advised was in contradiction to the manual.
First he informed me that the bows were changed to shorter length ones few years ago and gave me dimensions on the current ones. I ordered my top about 2-1/2 years ago and after measuring mine, I found they were the old, longer style. But he said don't worry about that right now - install all the snaps, one at a time from the doors to the center of the deck and leave the bows out for now. He said that after the first tab, install the next 3 or 4 a little above the centerline of the sewn panel around the base of the top. This was to avoid ending up with an exess of material when I got to the center of the rear deck.
I followed these instructions - although I may have gone a bit too far above the center of the panel and I think I went possibly one tab too far on this pattern before transtitioning towards the lower part of the panel. I got to I think the 5th tab and after installing on both sides, had a heck of an effort getting the top to stretch to where they could snap into position. I had the top laying flat on the deck and eventually realize that it needed to be leaning up towards the windshield in order to pull the center of the top back over the center studs. So I propped a board on top of the windshield and back to the rear deck to raise the top and I was again in business and got all the tabs in and secured OK. Most of the rear tabs install pretty close to the bottom of the top panel. If I can get them sanpped in place in a 60 deg garage I figure that out in the sun they should fit pretty easily.
On the first few tabs from behind the doors it's safe to install both opposing tabs at a time for the first 3 or so. I never did more than one new tab per side before re-fitting the top to check fit and mark where the next stud hit the top. As I got to where the big turn in the studs starts, I found it was best to install a tab on one side, re-fit the top and mark where to punch the hole for the opposing tab on the other side. I would re-fit the top and snap it down and pull the top into position on the other side and mark on tape stuck to the top of it, where the next stud was pressing on the top. After removing the top and before punching the next hole, I double checked the dimension between the stud for the tab I was fitting, and the previous stud and compared it to what I marked on the top. I constantly measured ahead to make sure I wasn't running out of top dimension as I neared the center and in fact found that I had to typically punch the next hole about 1/16 inch shorter than the measured distance between the studs. But with a bit of a tug and lifting under the top and pushing back on it, it fastened OK. I guess this 1/16 inch just compensated for slack in the loose top. Also, on the ERA there are a couple of studs where the dimensions between them are different from driver to passenger side. I suspect this mimics the originals - not sure. It's definately a measure 2 or 3 times before punching the hole process.
Then to protect my paint - I glued two strips of 1/8 inch thick felt all the way around the underside of the panel and over the lift-a-dot tabs, I punched holes in the felt for the studs to pass through.
That is all for now. The next step per Jack's instructions is to set the main bow and remove the back bow or tie it up out of the way. Install the top on all of the studs and then pull the forward part over the bow, stretching and lifting to get the bow in position at the sewn in crease in the top. This is going to have to wait for a warmer, sunny day to work on. Since I've confirmed I have the older, longer bows I know I'm going to have to shorten them, going slow in small cuts. He also advised that when first pulled to the windshield I should not be surprised to have large gaps behind the side curtains. There is a trick to deal with this that isn't in the manual.
Hopefully this doesn't all end in a disaster.