Fair enough. I'm sure Brent picked a nice carb for your set up, and it
is tuneable so that the engine will run perfectly. Here's a tip though, a brand new build will have the potential for more crap to get in to the carb than a build with a few years and a few thousand miles under its belt. Little flecks from the hoses, the lines, goo from here and there, it all makes its way in to the carb and filters don't always stop it. I don't know how many holes the emulsion tubes coming down for the main circuit has in your carb, but it doesn't take much to hamper one of them. A little dried varnish, a little fleck of hose/dirt/whathaveyou in and around the holes/tubes/passageways and it will throw off the performance. Then you find yourself trying to compensate for that shortcoming by tweaking other parts of the circuits. So, just make sure the insides of your metering blocks are clean enough to eat off of. Seriously, it really is a BFD with a fresh build, today's ethanol fuels, and you should try and get a chlorinated carb cleaner. They're outlawed in your state (California), I believe, so the best you're going to get is going to be something acetone based, which is better than nothing. But if you find yourself in a cheap, crappy dollar store, look for a no-name carb cleaner that has dichloromethane (methylene chloride) or another VOC that has chlorine as a component -- maybe you'll get lucky. Dang, you would think that in a state where you can just buy Panama Red at the corner dime store you'd be able to buy a chlorinated carb cleaner as well.
I use a separate little miniature polyimide tubing, that is thin enough to fit through the high speed (main) bleeds, to blast everything out. The tube that comes with your cleaner is usually too fat to fit in there and will just blast it back in to your eyes -- but that's better than nothing. If your AF meter gives you wacky readings, the first thing to suspect is crap in the carb.