Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
Phil, Rick, and Tim - great call on the studs. I think they work much better than the bolts. The only downside I can see is having to remove the studs if I disassemble in the future. I used the Canton ones I referenced above. What a great deal for $11, from Summit. Everything is stainless, they have the good locking nuts, and the studs have hexes. The ARPs are $60+ and don't have the hexes, and the rest of the cheaper ones are black oxide.
At any rate, the studs worked well because I could take my time cleaning them and making sure they were installed at the same height (3/4" from block surface). I used Permatex Hi-tack to glue both Milodon gaskets to the windage tray, text fit everything after I did my best to make sure the pan and tray were flat, and then applied Right Stuff to the top gasket on the windage tray. It was a snap to put it on the block because the studs held it in place. I then applied Right Stuff to the pan and installed it. Another nice thing about the studs is that the nuts go on so quickly if they are clean. Two more things: I used Acetone to clean everything, and I used stainless washers under the nuts so I don't chew up the pan. Torqued to 5 ft-lb, then 8 ft-lb, retorqued an hour later, and I will let it sit for a day or two before adding oil.
Seemed to go really well and I hope there are no leaks this time around. Thanks for the help. |
Zero problem on the stud removal. I've actually removed mine prior to popping the pan. It makes working a pan removal blade so much easier when typing it down the pan until it finally separates, also cleaning the block. Everything cleaned up with brake lean and you have nice clean fasteners, far less likely to back out. Those serrated Canton nuts, however, are designed to be washerless. Moderate torque and they grab the pan quite nicely.
In a prior life I owned a 356 Roadster for many years, you become quite adept at leak management.