Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongoose930
Thanks Patrick. Is the wire going to the Ammeter 10 gauge or 12 gauge? I am thinking that most of the current would run through the 10 gauge wire (if that is what it is) and only go through the 12 gauge parallel wire if there is a problem with the ammeter / 10 gauge wire. Great information.
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Right. The resistance of the new 12 gauge line is just a wee bit higher, but not much more, than the existing ammeter line. That allows the ammeter to still work very nicely. I do notice that when you turn on all the fans the "peg" of the needle does not go nearly as far as it once did. Other than that, the readings are just a bit more subdued, but still tell you pretty much everything that they always did. If I disconnected the ammeter entirely and just ran the car on the 12 gauge parallel line, it would probably be alright, certainly for a while, but it might also heat up and you wouldn't want to run it that way forever by any means, but maybe you could. The thing is, if all of a sudden I note my ammeter is acting differently than it has for the last seven or eight years (and it acts very consistently), then I know to stop and investigate. I have to say that's one thing nice about these cars, they tend to give you a little advance notice before they crap out on you. But sometimes that advance notice is
really subtle....