Thread: Rear Toe
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Old 02-23-2015, 03:58 AM
RICK LAKE RICK LAKE is offline
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Default Wouldnot worry about this until

redmt Red Alignment is last to do before driving on the street.
Need to get a basic ride height in the 4 corners of the frame.
After this need to get the car scaled. I think on just about all cars you need to move the battery to the trunk and place it on the shef over the rear right tire. This makes about a 50 pound different from being in the front on the right side and helps balance. Some guys use to small batterys and have them behind the passenger's seat. Good place, keep the weight as low as possible in the car, but I like the 50# for traction to help the r/r wheel.
Get the car running, get some weight in it with a full tank of gas, motor,trans, rearend and everything else. Let the car sit on the ground for a couple of days to break in the springs and get a good starting point. If you have a quiet road, I went and did figure "8" to load the suspension. About 10 turns each way with a total of 30. Make sure WHEELS DON'T RUB BODY.
Last note go back through the whole car and recheck nuts and bolts for correct torque.
You might want to look for a watt's linkage for the rearend of your car also. If the car is setup and skip the burnouts for the friends it's not needed, BUT if you show off that rearend will be shaking in the frame. I have seen the rearend move upto 2" in the rear openings. Contemp used to sell a kit that reduce this power by about 95%. The only thing that used to break was the pivot shoulder bolt in the top the the rear housing. Contemps system was setup to have no binding of the rearend under hard stopping of accelleration. and it worked. I gave my kit to another Contemp guy. It wouldn't work on and ERA frame with square tubing. Good luck Rick Ps Take a look at a caliper or ruler and look at what a 1/2" is. I think you will see that this is too much ans will wear the crap out of the rear tires. 1/16" to 1/8" is all you need. To get the rearend in toe spec you haave to add shims at the lower mounting points where the "A" arms mount to the center section. These bolts are safety wired and will need to be redone after alignment. I can talk you through this on the phone. too much to type Rick l.
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