redmt REd where the rear arms shorten and rewelded? I have seen some real hack shops with welding. If manual is doing this he starts and goes all the way around in 1 burn instead of short welds every 90 degress and checking for center. This would be my guess. The other thing was a smaller diameter tube installed in the lower arm before welding was done. With better than 15 years of racing have seen lower control arms seperate at the welds. From the quick look, not enough penatration or ampage. I think CWI used to sell lower arms made of aluminum. They where machined from 1 piece and bolted right in. IMO I don't think anything from Jag was setup correctly in the rear ends. This was for camber or toe. My rearend setup has a subframe that the jag rears is mounted into. I had to modify the outter mounts where the pivots for the arms are. They where over 1/2" out. I got everything in spec and welding heavy flat washers as locators if I every had to pull the rearend at a track and swap or repair. I have on l/s front pivot 7/16" thickness of shims and 3/8" in rear l/s side. R/s have 1/4" front and 3/8" rear. The mount plates are 2 degrees on the diff housing. The locating trailing arms have a mount like the old 63 dodge darts with 2 large bushing and they adjust to locate wheel in wheel opening. Was thinking of going to a solid mount but The rear carriers needs a little freedom to move and not start breaking parts under hard loads or abuse. The housing that holds the carrier also has to large pivot bushings at the top and centered. I like this engineering over mounting the Jag rearend directly to the frame of the car with the 4 upper bolts.
If the arms are not straight and true to your liking, have them redoneand find a guy who knows how to weld. Don't forget to add gussets from the tube to the end supports on both sides. I know you know this.
Good luck Rick L.
Ps if you goto the Watt's linkage and use the Contemp setup, get a thicker pivot shoulder bolt and carry a spare. lowes sells them. They snap under hard load or alittle abuse. The thread end is only 5/16" need to goto 7/16 or 1/2" with drilling and retapping the hole.
Sorry last note I have listened to alot of guys about running needle bearing or bushings in the rear pivot mounts for the arms. I did modify the bushing to allow grease to get to the shafts. They are the poly white ones. 15 years of abuse and still have no wear. I know the bearings should hold up as long with proper maintainance too. With little grease grooved in the bushings I do like them better. I have checked and found no deflection yet. Again under hard track loads they may be moving. For the serious guys a couple have gone to aluminum bushing inserts. Bootom line, Red through out the book and change or modify what you need to. Look at Nascar and bending rear tubes on a solid rear diff for better handling?
Ride them COWBOY.
