[RICK LAKE]

RACERAL Al motor looks great. 4 problems I have had with FE motors as well as others here,
1 under driven pulleys. The crank shaft is smaller than the water pump looking at the picture. March came out with a set years ago of 27% reduction. The problem was with a 60-70 amp alt it doesn't spin fast enough and if at ilde for long periods of time and fuel pump, and fans are all running the charging system CAN'T handle the load and kills the battery. Yes you gain about 3-6 HP but with a weak charging system you have weaker spark, (yes even the MSD system) and have fans spinning slower and other issues. I know when this gets border line, the brake lights will cause a stumble with the motor before it all quits. The crank shaft and water pump pulleys should be running a 1-1 ratio. You are not Nascar.
2 This may apply to only Dove intake manifolds, The casting are poor in the ports of the coolng system in the front of the manifold. Do a gasket match to get FULL flow in the system. Keep the opening about an 1/8" inside the gasket all the way around.
# Thermo stat, another pain in the butt problem with motors overheating. I started with the 180f stat like other guys here. I have a shelby block and heads motor to start. It was a 452 with 9.2 compression and hydro cam. Had 3 fans on it from ERA and if it idled for more than 3 mnutes it was running in the 220 range. Over time and testing found that part of the problem was not enough flow of coolant through the stat. Stant makes thermostats and I pulled apart about 20 boxes to find the one I wanted. It's for a 383-440 dodge in the late 60's. The housing it self is 2mm larger than an FE, but the opening is a 1/4" larger there the coolant flows. I ground off the other ridge and it fits in the FE manifold opening. The top bridge needs to be pushed down a little to clear on over flow tanks for the FE's. Since changing over to this thermostat, I have no more cooling issues. The temp drops 30 degrees when this thing opens and after the coolant is warned, it holds. After 20 minutes of racing 201-203F. Side note, if your radiator is straight up and down this doesn't apply. ERA is set at a 30-40 degree angle. The 2 small pusher fans look cool but block the air flow. ERA sales an air dam that bends the air in the opening to get more air through the radiator. Air doesn't like to bend. Except for the weight savings both the copper and aluminum radiators both work well
4 this is a small thing, If the water pump is Edelbrock it has a plate that rivets to the back of the impellor to help coolant be pushed through the system. If it doesn't you can have reversion in the system. They sell a kit for like $15.00. or you can make one from good tin and drill 1/8" holes and rivet it on yourself.
This s the list of problems I have had over the years and fixes. The choice is yours. For what I have been through, It's alot easier to do the changes on the engine stand and check than once in the car. Nice motor, good power in the torque range, it will haul the bacon and smoke the tires. Good luck Rick L.