[ALF]

Originally Posted by CompClassics

First I would like to point out that the original cars had thinner and more prone to deformation aluminum than the Kirkhams use on their cars. Another point I would like to make is that the original cars that received the good rivets usually he deformation in the riveted areas once the rivets were installed, they were race cars and function ruled over appearance.
You could drill the hood skin only and use the shallowest all aluminum rivet to achieve the appearance of the original cars. You could also offset the rivet slightly to either side of the frame tube to achieve the same result as I had previously mentioned.
Another option which I have used with success is to drill the holes as per original and drill all the way into the frame tube, then you use an appropriate length all aluminum rivet, modify the aluminum rivet by disassembling the rivet and using side cutters slightly cut into the rivet mandrel near the head of the mandrel. By slightly weakening the mandrel the rivet will pull until the rivet starts compressing and then break at a lower grip strength but still achieve a fastened rivet assembly without overly distorting the aluminum hood skin.
It is a common misconception but none of the original cars 289 (except possibly very early cars) or 427 hood rivets were installed after the cars were painted, a correct rivet installation would have the rivets painted in the body color of the car.

Hi John

What would be the space between the rivets on a comp car?
The position is given by the frame the hood gets mounted on, but the space between would be interesting to understand as different information can be found on the internet (1 1/2 to 2 1/4"). 15-1-15; 12-1-12 pattern
Knowing that no car was identical to the other.

Many thanks