And now that you had the little "flood" out the secondaries, you know we'll have to pull the bowl off to inspect the float, its hinge, and the little springy thing on it and, of course, replace the needle/seat. So, you'll need the two little round gaskets over and under the seat adjusting nut, the bowl gasket, and you might as well unscrew the metering plate and clean it out with carburetor cleaner -- another gasket is in there. And, you'll need the little "clutch" screw fitting to get those six screws out of the metering plate. Ehhh, just order the Holley tool for that -- it'll make your life easier. Why they used clutch head screws there I'll never know.... You'll need the plastic bowl screw gaskets, instead of the paper ones, and, if you're doing this on the secondary side, you might as well do the primary side. So, buy this fast rebuild kit, which is what I like and has everything that you need:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-37-1542/ and if you don't have 1) a "clutch" bit (I think 5/32", but I have the Holley tool), and 2) a "pointer" type inch/lb. torque wrench then pick one up. I take my Holley apart all the time and I've even cracked the bowl from tightening the screws by hand without using my pointer torque wrench. My "click off" inch/lb torque wrench just isn't as sensitive as I need for the low torque numbers on the screws. Those screws require
25-30 inch/lbs. Anything over about 50 inch/lbs will crack your bowl. I now torque everything on that carburetor, as if it were glass. My hand just can't tell the difference between two foot/lbs and four foot/lbs... but you generally hear it "snap" when you crack the bowl and the stream of gas once you fill it with fuel always tips you off.
On the plus side, after we fix the pressure issue, and do a "quickie rebuild" of the carb, your car will run better than it ever has before.
