Your starter solenoid looks to be just a three wire version of the Ford OEM solenoid that is on most of the Cobra cars. It does not have the ballast resistor bypass terminal, which would be on the right. Here is a pic of the traditional solenoid that is on my car, and zillions of the other Ford based electrical systems:
Place one alligator clip on that single terminal on the front of your solenoid. Place the other alligator clip on whichever one of those two big red cables goes directly to the battery. When you pull the trigger, you will hear a big "CLICK" noise from the solenoid itself, telling you that it has engaged. If you hook the switch up wrong, you won't hear anything.
OK, just in case you are a stickler for authoritative based parts referencing, if you look on the front of your air horn, I'm going to guess that, since your car is 15 years old, that the number is going to be 3310-10 or maybe 3310-11. If you then go here
http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...al_listing.pdf on the Holley Technical Resource page, you can see on that page that the correct Needle and Seat for those carbs is a #6-504
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ts/parts/6-504 That's a .110 seat size.
You could indeed set the floats with the electric pump on, and you'd be close, but the float level is also
dependent on the amount of pressure coming from the pump itself. What that means is that the float level will be a little different if you are running the electric pump, which will have a slightly different pressure, than the mechanical pump. This is because the float has to push the N/S up "harder" to seal off a greater pressure, so the float itself will sit a little lower in relation to the pool of gas that surrounds it. That is why you must set your floats based on what you're going to be driving with.
