[Blas]

Thank you Rick, Mark has the entire Owner's Manual Package.

The addition of a relay when using an electric fuel pump is a simple and excellent addition to your car. Use the existing dash switch to energize/de-energize the fuel pump relay as the switches + feed is routed thru the ignition key; thus turning on and off the pump with the ignition key should you forget. Use a larger gage wire with shorter overall length to power the pump via the new relay and your fuel pump will thank you. Be sure to add an inline fuse to the new pump power feed wiring.

The ECM (ECU) should be powered from the battery. This helps to eliminate spikes in the current flow. I believe most require 9.5V min to operate.

The cooling fan should be fine as wired from the factory. It has a dedicated relay, fuse and well sized wiring. I like the fan relay to be always hot and able to be energized with the ignition off by the radiator fan temperature switch to minimize heat-soak after parking a hot car.

But before you do anything, think about the eventual location and functionality of a master power cut-off switch. You will want it to actually shut the car off in the event of a shunt, so its placement in the electrical wiring system is critical. Pegasus makes a nice switch that disables the battery and alternator feed wire. Switch should be accessible by driver strapped in seat and visible/accessible by safety crew people should driver be ... otherwise distracted.

The usual cut-off switch installation in the large hot wire between the battery and starter solenoid does not shut a running car off. It does prevent a car from starting and is great for cutting power off for maintenance. But a running car will continue to run off the alternator output when switched off. (Don’t test this fact on your running car as flipping the cut-off switch off on a running car can send a big current surge thru the cars wiring – ECM’s and MSD’s etc. don’t like that at all…….$$$$)