Jim, I recently went through the exact same scenario. The calipers on the assembly I picked up were locked solid and I was unable to get the pads to budge. What Snake2998 said. Once the unit is free from the cage, split the calipers by loosening the bolts on the calipers. You may not need to fully separate them, but keep going until the pads are no longer stuck to the rotor. You can remove the pads at this point. On mine, one side was worse than the other and I really had to hammer the pads out from the other side of the caliper while the others slid out easily once the caliper body was partially split. Accessing the bolts to remove them from the differential is easier on a Series 1 rear - the bolt heads face outward and they are accessed through holes in the rotors, once you get them to turn. If you have a later Series 2 unit, the bolt heads are towards the diff and can be accessed with a spanner. I found it easier to turn the whole assembly upside down to get at the lower bolts.
From JH Engineering website:
Quote:
There are 2 different types of stub axle flanges/caliper mounts. Series 1 & early II, pic "B", and later Series II with additional bolt tabs for the calipers, pic "A". The differences are due to bearing configurations - ball bearings vs tapered roller bearings.
Also, the Series I case has fins in the casting off the passenger side of the pinion area.
The Series II casting has a solid wide bar in that area.
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This pic shows a Series 1 diff where the bolts go directly into threaded bosses on the diff case.
In this pic you see the tabs on a Series 2 diff that the calipers bolt to
