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Old 03-11-2018, 09:45 AM
Three Peaks Three Peaks is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Cobra Make, Engine: Scratch built CSX style frame, Carbon fiber body, 393 Stroker, T-bird IRS, T5
Posts: 1,623
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Oil pan will be dictated by your chassis- meaning which sump you need- front or rear. I would go with a Canton road race pan with baffles to keep the oil under the pump when in tight or long corners. A standard flow oil pump seems to be quite sufficient for small block Fords- not as much wear on the drive shaft since it also drives the distributor.

Keep an eye on what rotation your water pump needs to turn. Depending on what front dress you end up with, your water pump needs to turn accordingly- standard (clockwise) or reverse rotation.

As far as cranks, I researched this for quite a while before building my 393 stroker and ended up with a Scat cast crank. From everything I read, a forged crank just isn't needed unless you are pushing 700+ horsepower and/or racing the engine on regular basis. I built the 393 because it is the easiest and cheapest of the strokers to build and the hp potential is equal to the 408's and 427's without the issues of rod angles and piston skirt clearance. You can use stock 351W rods ( had mine reconditioned) and 302 pistons with a 20CC dish with those heads- same heads I'm running. Should give you around 10.5:1 CR and run fine on pump gas. With the proper cam, you'll have 500-525 pretty easy- mine runs around 515 or a bit more and sounds incredible.

Sounds like you have most of the other parts needed. With the 4 bolt mains, I wouldn't worry about studs or bolts- do what is easiest and cheapest - it will all work out. Make sure to have your fly wheel, clutch, and rotating parts available to go to the machinist for balancing all in one trip. Saves messing with it later and if you have your rotating assembly available, your machinist can check deck heights, etc.... while machining and adjust accordingly. I spec'd 0 deck height for my build so he shaved a couple .001's off my deck to accomodate my set up and everything went together perfectly.

Get a good timing chain. The block I bought came with a Cloyes timing chain so I went ahead and used it. Big mistake- by time I had the engine started and timed, it was already stretched and the gears were trash. Lucky, the guy I bought my cam from sent me a new Comp Cams timing chain set with everything else and it has been perfect. However, taking the front of the engine apart in the car after install wasn't really a lot of fun...


Have fun with the build.

Bob
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