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Old 04-11-2018, 07:44 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 824 with 470 FE BBM street 427
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Originally Posted by Morris View Post

The term Center-Lok is used because it's easier in a Race to remove only one Nut as apposed to removing like NASCAR 5 nuts....... In IMSA, Trans-Am and other type of Hi-performance vehicles the Center-Lok actually is the fastner of choice and easier.

On the back side of the Wheel are holes that match the hub studs, so all you do is put the wheel on the hub and rotate until the Studs line up with the holes in the back side of the wheel and the wheel slides right on the studs ... then one big Nut or Center-Lok tightens the wheel to the Hub.

The most important part of this is making sure the Nuts and the wheel have the same mating surface and that the angle is the same on the wheels and the nut.

Here's the Studs and the Center-Lok

Here's the nut with a pattern on the nut showing the patter of the wheel and nut mating surface.

Here's the wheel pattern and nut pattern

Thats why you need 450#lbs to prevent them from coming off.... and the Anti-Seize and a big bar or Impact Gun to get them off...

It is much easier using a 3/4"inch Impact gun to get them off.... and if you are using Nitrogen and a nut is overly tight ....we just turn the regulator on the tank up to 300# and the nut will come right off.... but normal 175#lbs a/c with knock any nut off...

Sorry for the long post.... just trying to explain.
Thank you very much. I was trying to understand the "hoop", thinking it wasn't attached to the nut. Now I see that it acts as a guide so the nut stays in the impact socket and is less likely to be cross-threaded. I've seen the nuts before on Indy cars, et al, but I haven't seen the center lock hoop.

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