[FatBoy]

I don’t really understand what you mean by “adjusted more than it should have been”. You adjust it until it’s right, no more, no less.
On the front, the lower arms aren’t adjustable, so they’re your fixed starting points. You the adjust the upper arms to get the correct camber and castor, followed by the steering arms for the toe.
The rear is a bit more complicated because of the adjustable trailing link. The problem is that you can adjust the upper arms at both ends and adjusting the inner joints independently will affect rear bump steer as well as camber. I found that I ran out of adjustment and had to get some modified top-hat spacers for the inner joints to move them forward in the chassis.
This will all be bread and butter for someone who knows what they’re doing. If you can assist your chosen expert, you will learn a huge amount about chassis and suspension setup.
One world of advice; don’t be tempted to say “it’s close enough”. Keep going until you get it as close as you possibly can. The time and effort spent will reward you out on the road.

Paul