[Michael C Henry]

I didn't have much room to do much with the new 45° zerks as they have a 3/8" hex body even with the half shaft partially separated. The puller legs bolt to the wheel flange studs ans the threaded screw shaft pushes against the tip of the half shaft. The puller did it's part it started the upright with it's wheel hub moving and made an ideal handle to push the upright down further down. I didn't take the fulcrum apart, it was stiff. My sway bar was connected to my lower support arm and not the aluminum upright. How much of the zerk broke off? Was it the zerk tip or did the body break off the 1/4" x 28 threads? My half shaft was anchored into the wheel flange with a large Allen bolt. It took about all my old impact would do to break it loose. Weather your Jag is held together with a Allen bolt like mine or the large castellated nut with a cotter pin, I'm betting you'll have to take it apart like I did. What do you think got in to the zerk to break it in the first place? The "True Power" puller I bought was a good value but there are more expensive pullers available. Are you going to do it yourself or take it to a shop? I see an equipped shop taking two hours or so if that castellated nut comes apart with out a lot of trouble.. IF this or that? Is there anything else you might want to take care of while you are in there? I was a heavy equipment mechanic and swapped a lot of zerks as if I was going to be the next guy to half to work this vehicle again. There are some differences in zerks. I chose a zerk that had more hex body to get a wrench on. It had shorter threads but over all length was the same. I used a local hydraulic supply store that makes hoses and such. If there is a fitting I'd need ?, they'd have it. The zerk I bought was in a bin that must have been the last of a style they had and they could not identify its part number or price. I'm sure I got a deal at $1 each.