You know that the headlight switches we had back in our cars from the 60's had circuit breakers built in to them (most, at least). Of course our Lucas toggle headlight switches can barely handle ten amps, much less have a circuit breaker built in to them. Adding the two relays in this thread to move current off the switch drops the amperage down to three amps or less, depending on whether you're activating the VW latching relay. Still, you ought to have a circuit breaker on the feed coming off the ignition switch and going to the Lucas toggle switch just in case something unusual happens. I finally got around to doing this today and chose a manual reset circuit breaker of 15 amps. I chose a manual reset because if this breaker ever trips then there is something clearly wrong that requires attention, not just automatic resetting and then clicking off again and repeating. On an ERA, just snip the brown wire at the eyelet of the "always hot" BATT post on the battery and run that brown wire to the load side of the circuit breaker (this particular circuit breaker actually labels its load and line feed terminals, most do not). Put a new eyelet terminal on the line feed to the circuit breaker and put that on the BATT terminal of the ignition switch. Mount the circuit breaker in a convenient spot and label it clearly so that the next guy that's working on your car, after you're dead and gone, can figure out what you did.
Here are two pics showing the installation. It all takes about an hour. Chances are that circuit breaker will never trip because it would take a pretty bizarre circumstance to short that headlight feed to ground.
