Yup, I know - "Oh no, another
oil thread!"
My reason is this - I don't believe
oil is a one size fits all. A Cobra with a 5.0 taken as is out of a Mustang will need a different
oil than a built to the limit race Windsor, which will need a different oil from an engine like mine, etc.
That said, I'd like some opinions from guys who have an engine build similar to mine, or if I am lucky enough one of the pros on here like Brent might even chime in. I live in Houston, where it's hot, but at least its humid hot.
I don't drive the car much when it's chilly out, for all three weeks that we have that. My FE is, as most go, on the fairly radical side. Here's the specs that I think might be pertinenet to the question at hand:
BBM cast iron FE block
BBM cylinder heads
RPM forged crankshaft
Crower forged connecting rods - 6.625” length
Custom CP forged pistons - final compression ratio is about 11.5:1
Custom Total Seal rings
4.345” bore, 4.375” stroke - 520 cu. in.
Blueprinted Melling oil pump
Canton screen windage tray
Milodon road racing oil pan
Solid roller cam - .735” lift.
Crower Enduamax bushed solid roller lifters
T&D race paired shaft rocker system
Smith Bros. pushrods
Ford Holley BC/BD 710 CFM carbs
BBM Tunnel Wedge intake
Cometic head gaskets
FAST (formerly Crane) distributor
Timing 32 deg. total
NGK BKR6E spark plugs
I don't know bearing type and clearances, which I suppose is important to the question.
I had some work done on the car recently, (the oil pan didn't have a bung on it for the oil temp sensor) and the guy who did the work, (I don't weld) who does fantastic work by the way, had to drain the oil and when he did he refilled with
synthetic. The engine only has about 50 miles on it, so I'm not thinking that it's a good time for
synthetic right now. I'm still not using the car because it's not 100% done yet, so there is very little if any use on the engine with the
synthetic in there. Given the weather here, which is typically hot, and the engine specs above, what oil do you guys suggest I use? Also, while we're here, those of you with remote oil filters and remote oil coolers, with all the lines involved in all that, how do you get all the old oil out of the lines and cooler when changng the oil? If I pull the synthetic out, which I'm guessing I'll have to do, I'd like to get it all out, or at least as much as possible, from the cooler and remote oil filter and oil cooler lines. I seem to remember reading that dino oil and synthetic don't mix very well.
I'd appreciate some thoughts and input on this. And yes, sorry for starting yet another oil thread.