Quote:
Originally Posted by 767Jockey
All great info guys, thank you!
Now for the other question - Now that I'm going to change the oil in this car for the first time, what do you guys do to get all the old oil out of the cooler and cooler/remote filter lines? I'd like to get every bit of the ynthetic that was mistakenly put in there out before I refill with the proper oil.
I was able to reach Blair Patrick, the builder who built the engine, and he's suggesting VR1 straight weight 30 or 40 for the first 3000 miles or so, then switch over to a good quality synthetic. He says the synthetic might inhibit proper ring sealing. Since a couple of you guys suggested VR1, and Blair does as well, I am going to go with that. |
Blair's advice is spot on (IMO). The non synthetics will help the rings seat more quickly. The synthetics are more slippery and while the compression rings may seat well the oil rails will have a bit of a struggle. Eventually they will all seat but why go through the pain when it is not necessary. The old Dino based oils and the newer commercially available break-in oils in particular will do a very nice job for you during break-in.
The other thing not to use is
any type of friction modifier. Same problem — oil ring seating and potentially a longer seating effort for the compression rings also. Once everything is seated, most any friction modifier you want to use will not only be good but also protect the engine during cold starts while the oil galleys need to get repressurized. Those few moments before the various bearing surfaces see pressurized lubrication is when the majority of engine component wear occurs.
Ed