Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominik
Somebody who knew once, said about brake shudder:
"In more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history I have never seen a warped brake disc.
To induce that kind of permanent deformation, you would need to heat your rotors to a sustained temperature of over 738 degC then rapidly quench them in order to convert the thermoelastic instability generated hot spots to martensite instead of the ferritc/pearlitic matrix you started with.
Your basic brake pads will begin fading around 350 degC. Your high performance pads will begin fading around 550 degC. You will start to break down the surface of your rotor into cementite hard spots around 610 degC.
Your basic Dot III brake fluid will begin to boil as low as 140degC. High performance brake fluid will only take you to around 300 degC.
Bottom line - Your brakes will fade into near uselessness long before you can achieve the conditions necessary to warp your rotors.
Uneven deposition of friction material results in this thickness variation or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures."
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"Somebody who knew once, said about brake shudder:"
"This person" obviously
never spent time in the automotive service industry working with the general public. Warped rotors are very common and one can achieve this quite easily on your standard car - you could do it in minutes given the right situation. After years in the auto service industry and teaching with Ford, it is all too common to see people with this issue.
JHV48, I suggest contact Superformance, let them know what car you have; ask them to provide the details on your brakes and then either get the minimum thickness spec from them or Wilwood for resurfacing. Or buy new rotors with the information you receive about your brakes.