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Old 08-03-2002, 08:41 AM
Jack21 Jack21 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia), VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
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This group - no opinions! Never happen!

Switching to tubular should eliminate your tire rubbig against the ball joint. OEM stamped steel have a lot more metal outside the ball joint center that tubulars do not. If you still have tire rub with tubulars, then you have too much wheel backspacing. Put a wheel shim between wheel and rotor.

Heidts is a street rod shop. Don't talk to them about Cobras, they don't want to hear it. But they're tech section on how the MII front suspension works is a must read for anyone building a MII based front end.

Using Heidts upper "D" arms. The place to go for this is RCC Specialties. http://www.dwayne9.addr.com/. They have uppers, and lowers for this setup with a slightly lower shock mount. Gives shock more travel. Also have the Carrera coil overs. And they know Cobras.

Another place to look is bethania-garage.com. Tom Beroth has the best upper control arm brackets for MII suspensions. Set alignment with shims, and it stays put. He also has uppers, lowers, and coil-overs as well.

Manual steering, Flaming River rack is the best way to go. Power (yes, you can have power steering in your Cobra), use rebuilt standard ratio, high effort valving, late ('79-up) Mustang by AGR, and reconditioned pump by AGR. Both Saginaw and Ford pumps will work. The Saginaw is common on most GM's, but it's not a Chevy pump. Ford pickups and vans use them and Ford brackets are readily available for any Ford engine. With the Saginaw, RB's Antique Automotive sells a low pressure relief valve for better steering effort for lightweight front ends. Setup works very well.

Brakes. For 15" wheels, the minimum should be the Granada 11" rotor - mid-GM caliper conversion. For 17's, look at 13" rotor setups from Baer.
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