Thanks for your replies!
DV - if your TruLok/TrakLok/TruTrak thingy (
) can come through a centre section failure unscathed, then I'm impressed with it's strength. I like the sound of it's soft engagement / disengagement. Thanks!
CS - Thanks for the heads up about the axles, but I thought the Pro gears were softer (less brittle) to soften the shock loading of the gear engagement when leaving the startline in drag racing applications. I thought it was this softer metal that made the Pro Gears wear at a faster rate than the street gears. Those midgets sure are fun to watch!!!
Richard - yet again I finish reading your posts convinced that I should have bought a JBL and converted it to right hand drive..... In hindsight I'd love to be able to sit back and stop worrying - safe in the knowledge that I had a well designed, proven chassis underneath me. That, sadly is not the case.
While I have not done any beaming/torsional testing on my chassis, let's assume that I have a chassis with no more structural integrity than your basic, average, boring old middle range Cobra replica. Based on that fact, what ( IN THEORY) would you think about having STIFF springs, middle range damper settings, and NO roll bars..... Would that then allow transfer and rotation, or do you still need at least a front roll bar for the sake of adjustment? If my questions are becoming too childish and basic, please tell me to stop wasting your time.... Jeez, I'm an amateur at chassis design
