[rdorman]

Thanks for the information guys.

I remember the post about machineing the spacer and nut. But that is only machineing the spacer that goes between the inside bearing and the castle nut to allow the cotter pin to slip in and to position the bearing better. This has already been done.

I talked to the Weavers and the told me the rotor IS a 1970 Monte Carlo rotor as is from Chevy, no changes required. I am working with Autospeciality (powerstop rotors) and wilwood amongst others to come up with a solution to the problem but so far no luck.

The holes in the Girling rotors ARE larger than the bolts. Some sort of bushing reamed to fit would be a good idea. Once the caliper moves forward though..... . Plus, the bolts on the OEM Jag setup are safety wired. Next time you R&R your rotors you may want to safety wire them.

For those of you running the Jag/girling set up, what size master cylinders are you using and what is your peddle ratio?

By the way, I recently changed to EBC Greenstuff pads at all four corners. Significant improvement. Seems to me they where about $180.

Search for my tip on the MG column to convert to caged needle bearings, much nicer. This winter I am changing 'sway' bar, going to tube shocks, making the camber adjustable and replacing the rubber bushings with nylon bearings. Let you know how it goes!