My opinion only, I agree with most of the above recommendations, though I've heard of issues with Eagle rods (mostly in competitive situations though).
I don't agree with the oiling mods, though. Especially as described in Steve Christ's book. Ron Miller at FPP provided many of the parts used in the photography of Christ's book and much of the advice. He has since claimed that the oiling mods, particularly the drilling out of the main passage is excessive and can lead to block failure in that area.
You should realize that the oiling mods are generally for drag-racers who are launching hard and under constant acceleration after launch, which with front sump pans, can indeed lead to pumped-dry pans. These racers also restrict the
oil flow up into the heads. For street use, with a good pump, you only should pay attention to chamfering the edges of the
oil passages and, if you decide on the Edelbrock heads, making sure the
oil drainback holes are open, and clear of any obstructions once everything is bolted down and the gaskets are in place. Also, the tin fingers over the rocker shafts DO help, especially in drainback; getting the oil back down to the pan. Painting the inside of the block doesn't really help, just make sure it's cleaned and smoothed.
I'd get a good T-type pan (Canton), I actually don't think much of windage trays either as it just slows the return of the oil and is only really effective for anything above your projected RPM range. Again, these are just my opinions. If you can get a good pan, maybe with some baffles and swinging doors if you're really really concerned; use a regular pump, or a HV pump because you 'must', don't use a combo HV/HP pump for street. Clear the passages, make sure the oil has a good path to and from the pan, and run.
Many, many, many FE people will disagree with my opinion, but what can I say? That's what I think, that's what I did. And it seems to work just fine.