[George Snyder]

I am not an expert by any means, but have run one of my cars on a dyno many times.
It seems to be an acceptable fact that drive train loss for manual is about 15% and 18 for automatic. You could also add 5 to 8% for engine accessaries, as water pump, alternator, etc to yeald BHP at the crank. I have seen this confirmed from guys at other Forums that did both to their engines, before and after.

The size tire, gear ratio has no bearing on the numbers. Manuals are always run in 1.1 ratio.

They also are not very accurate. Some Guys use coast down numbers when calculating rear torque and HP numbers. A chassis dyno is a great tool to measure changes that are performed on the same engine. Cam change, carb settings etc.
The only way to get true numbers is with an engine dyno.

kountzcobra,
I agree with you that the numbers sure do seem high for that engine. Remember they are at the rear wheels and you would then add your percentages for crank!
They are a lot of fun and are a great tuning tool, especially the air/ fuel ratio graph, which was your intentions.

The other rules for torque/ hp are: hp = 25% 0f torque @ 1,300, 50% @ 2,600, 755 @ 3900, always.
Bud