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Old 07-03-2003, 03:57 PM
a427sc a427sc is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Enfield, CT,
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Just a couple of notes:

Race pads need to be bedded in, even if they have been furnace heated by the mfg. They have to burn out the solvents, seat to the surface of the rotor, and actually transfer a layer of material onto the rotor. See your mfg instruction on the bedding in process, it is VERY important. Two street miles isn't enough unless you get rather aggressive on them.

Street driving doe not normally get them into their heat range. This will build up a glaze layer. Every so often, give them a good run and a couple of HARD stops to clear them up.

Rotor size matters (he!!, size always matters), but the easiest/cheapest way to improve race track brake performance is to use a top quality race fluid such as Wilwood 550 or Motul 600 etc. The problem is they will need to be bled often and aren't very good with moisture. And don't forget to add some cooling ducts, at least for the fronts. Don't use plastic dryer hose as it melts, Get some flexable metallic heater duct hose from Home Depot and aim the air into the center of the rotor from behind.

One more thing. On the track, don't go for long medium pressure stops, and several "safety taps" as you get to the brake zones (a common rookie approach). This will build up excessive heat. Apply the brakes smoothly but aggressively (don't just stomp them) and stop hard until you get to the speed you need to turn in. You'll probably find yourself a long way from the turn-in point the first few times, so wait a little longer next time, and try to be consistant. Remember, the longer you wait, the faster you will be going, so work up to it gradually.

Have Fun

McFEz

BTW, Want some track time at DVSFIV? Let them know.
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