[rdorman]

Mine is pretty much stock MG with a few exceptions. Heavy duty springs, V8 bushings. The 'valve' on the level shocks has been taken apart and put back in to disable the level shock and tube shocks added that connect to a bracket the bolts in place throught the outer level shocks mounting bolts on the top and to the lower a-arm on the bottom (much better ride and handling than the level shocks). The sway bar is not a stock mg piece and I have no idea what it came from. It bolts through the bottom of the lower a-arm and mounts in non-stock location. The 'lever' length of each bar is much shorter than that on an MG. When I go the Hawk front suspension I will replace it with a stock location but adjustable bar. I will also be doing what ever is required to minimize bump steer and maximize ackerman.

The brakes are all wilwood using dynolight billet calipers with 10.75 (like the GM rotors) but I am changing the rotors to 12.19 this winter as well to get the brake effort where I would like it to be.

For those of you with the MG column as well, you can change out those loosy plastic and felt 'bearings' for caged needle bearings. I outlined the process in a tech tip some time ago. Easy and cheap to do.

I have found places on the net that offer both offset bushings and the greasable nylon kind so that you can get a little camber in the front end and eleminate bushing play with bushings that don't sqeek like crazy. Cambridge Motorsports, Rally Design, Fab-Tek, Speed Well Engineering all come to mind. As well as Moss which also has a coil-over kit (appears as though it is back) but it does not look to be up to the standard of the hawk unit.

British Automotive in California has the Hawk set up for $945 and an optionial hardware, etc kit for $250.

If I remember correctly the Hawk unit increases your front track by 5/8" (good thing) so keep it in mind.

For those of you running the GM rotors I have a pair of four pot Girling calipers with EBC greenstuff pads for sale. The bolted directly to me MG spindles and matched up nicely to the GM rotors. They are in the parts for sale forum and I am not looking for much more than the pads cost for everything.

The Unique route I think even includes a new flaming river rack as well as the brakes etc so if it fits, it would be a one shot way to update the entire front end.

I run 245/60 and 275/60 and the car feels pretty well balanced without undue steering effort.

Any one know what would be good wheel rates for these cars? Not a track car but a cruiser that sees some very, very spirited driving at times.

Rick