[Jack21]

Problems with Lucas turn, park, and tail lights.

First order of business is mounting surface needs to be flat. This was not a problem with CR. If it is on SV, sand and fill as you're doing. Then remove the lamps before painting.

The first mod you'll likely make is the mounting screws are too short. They were made for sheet metal, not fiberglass. Use a socket on the underside to pound the old ones out and replace with stainless screws, washers, and nuts.

The assy needs to be waterproof. The lamp to body needs to be sealed. Use cork, rubber or gasket material. I used rubber from hardware store plumbing dept for a lamp to body gasket/seal.

I sealed it with a mixture of ordinary (not moly) wheel bearing grease, and WD-40 on both sides of the rubber gaske. Also applied a small amount to the foam Lucas gasket that goes betweeen the lens and housing.

They need to be corrosion proof.

There are little brass bushings that the lens screws go into on the lamp body. These things will corrode (dissimilar metals corrosion) if not protected. The wheel bearing grease/WD-40 will prevent this.

The lamp ground wire connections are equally flakey and subject to corrosion. I unrolled the ground tab, drilled it for a stainless screw, soldered the ground wire to a crimp connector, then installed it on the lamp with the stainless screw. Applied corrosion proof grease and installed he lamp. Corrosion proofed the bulb socket, and electrical contacts with the same grease/WD-40 with a Q-Tip.

Replaced the OE bulbs with "Brite Lites" from Ron Francis Wire Works (wire-works.com) to make the car substantially more visible at night.

I use the car as a daily driver sports car, and installed Hella driving lights for intermediate range lights. Sandwiched a bracket between front park/turn to mount Hellas. Looks factory. But the same technique can be used to install a front license plate if your State requires front and rear tags.