Rick - Sometimes I get ahead of myself and forget what the standard stuff is about. Re; Dry sumps. I forgot that most dry sump systems combine both the excavating side and the engine pressure side pump into a belt driven system. What I was talking to Richard above was about splitting both sides of the pumps to seperate components, resulting in some different advantages.
As for how a engine is clearanced,,,,,,, way too complex of subject for this thread. Generally though, on most automotive builds for todays cars if you can turn the engine on a stand with a breaker bar at the damper kinda easy then you have a loose build. If you can't then it's a tight build. That todays builds are built loose on purpose, is what I was talking about above. As for horsepower gains on wet/dry sumps about 1/2 of the pro stock NHRA cars ran wet, 1/2 ran dry. Generally it's reconized that there is no gains to be made going either way. The same thing for fuel injection too by the way, according to most of those same guys. Yes, there is such a thing as a "dry" engine start. But todays oils go a long way towards aleiving most of those issues. A engine that has sat for a week or even for 2 or 3 weeks is NOT a dry start situation in my eyes. I've also heard that same 80% wear junk on startups all my life. It's wrong IMHO, just advertising really. Ask anyone that builds engines for a living and I'm sure most will tell you that 90% of a engines wear is in the last 10% of it's life, or there abouts, when things get sloppy. In my opinion it's by far more important to change your
oil every 3K regarding wear, IMHO.
Richard, Pat - I agree that a few seconds of pre oiling is all that is needed. Yes Pat, it doesn't hurt either. Richard, we have millions of cars on the road and some of them are hefty performance cars that require no pre oiling. Hmmmmmmmm. BTW - I thumpk I've found a relable electric
oil pump, maybe, maybe. We will see.
cobrashock