[Michael C Henry]

I bought an 1" kit ,but never installed it.I had been given warnings that with the increased volume at the slave cylinder ,I may have to install a pedal stop on the master cylinder pedal. I only needed a little more travel at the slave cylinder and with the greater master cylinder diameter and volume, I was losing leverage. So I deceided to split the difference and just go up to a 15/16" diameter master cylinder.The pedal is slightly harder to push than with the 7/8" master cylinder.I never drive with bare feet and with shoes on I can hardly tell the difference. After all it has been a long time since it last ran and it is just the way it works .Given I have the same clutch( presurplate, lever and slave cylinder) as before and the clutch pedal is as before. it doesn't mater how you approach it or what parts you change .You have a throwout bearing tring to move the levers on a pressureplate with a given spring rate a specified distance . In my case I only changed how far the throw- out bearing traveled so my reactive pressure stayed the same but required more fliud to travel farther.If I increase the volume of the master cylinder ,It will take a little more pedal pressure to move the master cylinder the same distance as before but more fluid is being moved,due to the larger diameter of master cylinder. Everything is a trade off .If I would have gone with a larger diameter master cylinder the more pedal pressure that would have been required.Without changing any other componets By changing the master cylinder diameter a 1/16" ,I got the needed extra travel of the slave cylinder at the expense of a little more pedal pressure. They have formulas for all this stuff but given that I was just buying a little larger diameter master cylinder and all the math would not have changed anything.