[Bruce Robles]

Thanks Guys For the baseline alignment Specs.

Morris, I to have spent many years in racing going from a BP Shelby GT 350R SCCA Club Racing in the '60's and on to TRANS-AM, FORMULA 5000, CAM-AM and Champ Cars in the '70's, GTU, GTO, GTP in the '80's and CART thru the mid '90's.

I think it's great Tom and David have finally found someone with the expertise and the time to do what you have done with web pages that were related to me.
I find your comments concerning the roll resistance and the need for a stiffer bar on the Cobras spot on.

My car has the billet upper and lower control arms with rod ends every where. Your car has a fixed lower control arm which, whether good or bad, gives a base to start from. With the infannant adjustment on my car, unless the rod ends are installed at KMS on a fixture that was built with consideration to length for the proper track, wheel base etc. the job of doing the alignment is monumental.

As mentioned you can't do this at your local tire store. You graffic explainations and pictures are terriffic, and there are those of us out here who have experience in doing many of the things you have touched on. However many of the people who purchase these cars don't have the knowledge, or didn't until your post, how to, or where to get this type of work accomplished.

I have spoken to Thomas about building fixtures to assemble the A-arms in in order to get the Rod Ends screwed in the proper length so the car is square upon delivery. This would require removing the suspension from a car that has been properly aligned and using the A-arms as models to build the fixtures from, for all four corners, upper and lower. Or they could use the original Cobra non adjustable A-arms as a reference. Perhaps while you are around thier shop you can get this in the works. It would save a ton of time in the end, and some guy who buys a car and just wants to drive it can, with some degree of safety. I have friend down in LA who took his car to a guy I know down there, ( I just moved to Washington and don't have my shop set up yet) and it took 3 10 hour days to get it right, ride heigth, track, wheel base, bump steer and corner weight. It cost a fair amount too.

I realize that this won't cure bumpsteer problems and there will need to be some fine tuning, especially for track use, but at least there would be a known base to start from.

Since I have been relocating, I had a shop in the Atlanta area install the engine and get it running and drivable. They did a nice job with the install and paid close attention to detail except they aren't suspension minded. They set the front toe and that's about it.

Since the car is being shipped soon, and I'm 6 mos. from my shop being done, I was wondering if anyone knew of someone in the Pacific Northwest who has a place to do what Morris has described?

Thanx.