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I'm not sure where to start.... you caught me on the road with out any of my notes.....but we'll try to answer some questions that have been posed on this forum.....
The first thing we have to do when we start with a chassis is make sure the Chassis is square..... and we do that by dropping a string from 4 points on the chassis that are the same point on each side..... the idea is to find Centerline of the chassis and see if the chassis is square......that is the starting point of the chassis work......
I like to find the Centerline and then once I know where the center line is ...... measure to my chassis frame or tubes to see if they are straight with the Centerline...... this will make measurments easier at a later point..... if they are not straight then you'll have to use the Centerline to make all of the measurments....
Once we know the chassis is straight and square and know where centerline is....then we have a reference point .... the outside of the frame rail...... on our car the frame rail or 4" tube frame rail became our reference for toe or for location of suspension points.....
So what we do first is measure Castor..... Castor has many good things going for it..... in the sense that it will make the car track straight.... but you may need Mark McGuires Forarms to turn the steering wheel..... on the street we will run 3*to 4*degrees of Castor.... on the track we will kick the Castor up to 5*- 7*degrees and this will help the steering wheel return when in a loose turn ........ you can't respond fast enough with your hands.... many times I would just let the steering wheel rotate in my hands and the front end would correct for itself..... but again on the street you will have a hard time turning the steering wheel with 5-7degrees of Castor.... BTW Castor won't have anything to do with the turn ability of the car...... just tracking down the track....
Then we set Camber ..... leaning in of the wheels..... on the street we will set the camber from -.7 degrees to -1 negative degree of camber..... on a track we'll set the camber based on the tire temps..... usually a static setting will be from -1.5* to -3*Negative degrees.....again the tire temps will tell you where to set the tires camber....
Toe is set for the street at 1/16 on each front wheel.... and usually an 1/16" to 1/8" on each wheel..... depending on what type of suspension you have and what your bump steer tell you.... That is why Bump Steer is so important.....
Once we do this we go back and make some measurements..... like we drop lines of string or clamp right angle straight edges on the rotor..... this is when we will measure where the wheel or rotor is from the chassis..... or better yet measure from the frame rail to the lower ball joint to know the track is going to be the same.....on both the front wheels as well as the rear wheels.....
After we know where the wheels are located ...then we get into Bump Steer.....
Everybody has their own way of doing this....and there's no set way to accompolish this
But Bump Steer has to be done.....an I believe not many cars have had it done....so I wrote the issue in Gasholes to help folks to learn how to do this stuff....
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Morris
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