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40K,

Once you get past the sanding stage (if you burned through the paint, reclear that area, at least!) you might consider the following:

(BTW, Using up to 2000 grit saves alot of compound work and potential burnthrough later.)

All of the previous messages offer good advice. Just be aware of a couple of things. First a glaze is a temporary "fix" to scratches. It fills in the valleys left from sanding, compounding, etc. with essentially a "sugar compound". It makes the car shine really well for about a week or until the first washing or exposure to sun. Body shops use them to make your car look incredibly shiny when you pick them up. Most shops will tell you not to wax your car for 2-3 weeks after painting. If your car loses some of it's gloss, many shops will apply another glaze in the mean time. So, if your paint is really fresh, you might want to wait awhile, perhaps up to 30 days before waxing or sealing your car's finish. Even with today's 2 part urethane clearcoats, there is a "curing" time involved. This allows any residual solvents to "offgas" and evaporate. You don't want to trap them under wax.

There are hundreds of great products out there to bring your finish up to a great shine. I would suggest staying with one manufacturer's brand throughout the process. Most have spent a bunch of time and money making sure their "system" produces good results. If you combine several brands of products, you may be causing extra work if not a potential big mess!

That being said some systems are simpler than others and involve fewer products to buy. 3M usually involves buying the most products to achieve their best finish. Their products are excellent, but there may be more $$ involved and more work. Some brands are now offering excellent finish results with as little are 2-3 steps. You might check with your local auto paint store to see what they recommend. They should have the latest products with the newest technology to make it easier for you.

Good luck!



If you have burned