[cobrashoch]

serelesar - I find interesting that you choose to shorten the arms and thus limit wheel travel. That's a old school way of thinking that runs current to current thinking, but has indeed been done through the years many, many times. The only problem I see is when you shorten the arms, the mount points on the hubs have to be pulled down to to keep the stock geometry. (stock upper arm angle) Shorter hubs are sold thru Speedway and others for use on shortened arms that restores stock geometry. It looks to me like you are trying non stock arm geometrys as I did several years ago, always leading me to compomised results. I played with mounting points on the frame, shorter arms, even used a hub off of a old T-Bird (for big brakes) reversing the right side to left and vice versa to get the the steering arms forward for a forward rack.
Through it all I returned to stock type gemetry stuff for several reasons. For example, I too ran into the upper arm slot adjustibiliy problem you mentioned. My solution: to buy adjustable upper arms. Thats not a option for your custom upper arms. See where this is going? We are talking about down the road easily had modification stuff, as apposed to modified custom everything stuff.
Running a narrowed front is the answer, together with the stock stuff IMHO. I tried all of the other stuff and finally switched back to stock for several reasons.
As for the rack, all you have to do is measure from ball joint eyehole to ball joint eyehole on the hubs, with a narrowed front end. Send some money to Flaming River (or others) together with that measurment and in about 3 days you will get the right rack. Then you will have to figure out what it will take to mount said rack exactly dead even and straight across to your cars frame. Each car is different but it is really pretty simple in most cases, requiring hand made spacers or washers, whatever. A few times it may require welding, as was in my case, but most cars in my experience don't have to go there.
cobrashock