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Originally Posted by CJ428CJ
Excaliber,
I agree with your concerns. If you do all 16 valves at once, the engine will have cooled a lot by the time you get to the last valve. I suggest taking your best guess at the cold lash setting. Set all 16 valves cold. Then take the car out for a good long run allowing water and oil temps to come up to normal. Get it back into the garage and as quickly as possible recheck the lash on just a couple of valves. This should tell you the difference between your hot lash and your cold lash. Let the car sit and cool overnight and then the the next day you can reset all the valves to the newly calculated cold lash.
Of course you would want to always set your cold lash when your engine is at roughly the same temperature. That is, if you use the above method to find the proper cold lash on a 50 degree day, your results would be different than if you did it on a 90 degree day.
Chris |
Chris, Who are you trying to kid? Do you really think you can feel the difference that a 40 degree change in air temperature "might" make in setting valve lash? If the difference between a hot engine and a cold engine results in only .002" on a iron head/iron block configuration, just how much (or better yet, how little) would be caused by only a 40 degree change in ambient air? You must have a much better sense of touch than anyone I have ever seen set a valve lash. Must be using a set of guages calibrated to .00001".
When we set lash at the strip we do it hot with the engine running. That way we get a more consistent and accurate setting. We don't have to worry whether or not we have it TDC.