Chas; Along with the 9.200" Windsor Block you will require the following:
351 W ,
Oil pan ,
Oil pump& pickup, Timing chain/gears, Camshaft, Timing cover, Cam thrust plate, Fuel pump, Distributor gear, Waterpump, & possibly the Damper.[ The 351c Damper may work but check clearance between rear damper face & timing cover] (351w has shorter crank to cam center distance than 351c, this is why 351w parts reqd )
You will need to machine the shoulder or step that is just in front of #1 main journal on your 351c crankshaft to allow the Windsor timing gears to line up and extend the keyway towards the rear. A similar amount will need to be turned of the front of the crank snout to allow the retaining washer/bolt to do it's job. Cleveland cranks are externally balanced like early Windsors in std form.
CYLINDER HEADS: Block off the transfer holes in the deck surface @ each end of the heads (Square holes nearest intake side about 5/8x5/8 )
Drill and Tap 3/4-14 NPTF @ the front of the LH & RH heads to take the coolant out of the motor ( Dont get it wrong like I did once and end up with two RH heads ). Find someone with an old SVO catalog (circa 1993) if you can , these had dwg's for this mod. Be careful not to overtighten these fittings due to the close proximity to the original hole's on the deck face that we have just blocked off. This is your chance to make your motor look like an FE with these coolant lines running into a header tank or swirl pot before going to the radiator.
Now your cleveland intake manifold while matching the heads & ports will not be a total match in the valley end seal's and may need some buildup with a Tig or epoxy particularly at the rear. You will also need some longer pushrods due to the camshafts lower position in the block.
Also if your 351c reqd flow notches in the bore for valve clearance you will need to duplicate these on your new block, along with checking your 351c head gasket matchs the coolant passages.
From memory thats about it!!
Regards Jac Mac