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Originally Posted by jimmymac
... oil relief valve moved ok. How much tension does this spring supposed to have? I can move it with sm. screwdriver easily. Im not sure its 36years old! Could it have stuck open when hot then closed later? Ive been told Rotella oil sound like a good idea?...Should I keep the relif valve in the rear?...jimmymac |
Do as the others have suggested first, Goober's idea is the best way IMO to check your pressure. You should feel definite resistance when turning the pump with a drill motor
counterclockwise. If you don't, you probably have an internal leak (crankshaft crossdrill plug if using a steel 427 crank has happened before). The relief valve spring won't go bad in a case like this unless it breaks, but that's not likely and visible if it does.
The relief valve in the back can be adjusted with thin washers (I use brass) to increase the pressure. Put them between the spring and the valve, the valve goes in last with the small stem sticking out.
Double check the pressure you have now first; if it's low, check for a leak somewhere. The info on the pressure relief is just FYI.
Rotella
oil (diesel, also has SJ(?) automotive classification), available at Wal Mart, has more zddp ("
zinc") additive for antiwear properties than today's automotive oils, is recommended, especially for flat-tappet cams, but won't cure a problem like yours.
Dan