Hi Tom,
Yes I went with the "Reactor 105" which required me to redo the install and bracket setup up a bit with some shimming with washers to get it lined up right but ended up fine. Interestingly a small
oil drip problem was revealed with the alternator out - the
oil pressure tubing was again leaking at the fitting to the block so I decided to go with a Smiths electric
oil pressure gauge - no more oil tubing into the dash
- and this is backed up with an oil pressure switch at 20psi that I wired to the red dash warning light (which is non functional with the single wire alternator setup anyway). The harness to the voltage regulator I isolated with a bunch of heat shrink tubing and tie strips and anchored it way back up out of the way but can be reused if there ever is some reason to go back to the voltage regular setup. I went with a double 10-gauge wire run from the alternator to the solenoid, I did not like 6 or 8 gauge wire samples and was advised a double run of 10g was more than sufficient for the alternator. I have an 80amp circuit breaker on this alternator output run and I mounted that through the same location as where the voltage regulator was. At the solenoid the large copper connect at the top is attached to both 10g alt wires. The smaller red wires are the outputs to the MSD box and the car primary 12v lead. I'm using the solenoid on my mini-starter so the firewall solenoid mostly acts as a connection post for the battery lead and the starter lead. My stereo install is all wired to the switched side of my battery cut off in the trunk so none of that load goes through the underdash panel. The other big draw items - fans, lights - are all separately fused and on relays with the SP setup so I think the wiring should be stable and safe - that's just my guess
