Hi,
Newbie asking dumb questions... please be gentle.
Recently purchased an 88 NAF 427 with what looks to be a .030 over 302, 4sp close-ratio Toploader, and coil-over 9" with (apparently) 4.56 gears (3300 @ 55 mph w/ 295/50/15s).
Little of what the previous owner said has turned out to be true (2 owner car, Ford crate motor, 3.55 rear gear, etc). Car had a little less than 9K on the odometer; he owned it approx 3 years and according to the title put about 3k miles on it. When asked (after cash changed hands no less) what maintenance the car needed, he replied "Nothing. Just get in it and go have a good time."
Well, car has an little overheating problem. When I pulled it off the trailer found the coolant 3/4 of a gallon low (w/ the fill point at the manifold). Then changed the
oil. Mobil 1 (supposedly what was in the crankcase) ran out burned black and stinking, (yes it was checked before purchase and was "clean" amber in color, must have poured fresh
oil in just before I looked at it) with 5 needle bearings attached to the drain plug magnet. Pulled the pan and found what looked to be two halves of a blown roller lifter tip and what appeared to be graphite coating the bottom of the pan.
Looked up and saw... aluminum connecting rods and a flat tappet cam. Piston scuffs on cylinder walls (but can still see hone marks elsewhere). Pulled the valve covers and found die-cast aluminum roller rockers and J302 aluminum heads.
Called him up and told him what I found. Bland, non-committal, I didn't know, etc. Caught him in at least two outright lies. Decided to cancel my deposit check, but the cashier's check for the bulk of the purchase had already gone through. So far, he hasn't *****ed about the check cancellation (tho I expected him to, several weeks have passed).
So that's where I'm at. At this point the engine has been flushed twice with 20w-50 Shell
oil. Will cut the oil filter can open this week to see what is coming out of the engine. First flush was pretty bad, but expected that. Engine holds 15 psi oil pressure hot idle and between 35 and 40 psi above 2500 rpm. Real low, very marginal. But...
Adjusted the valves and carb. Runs OK. Starts easily cold or hot. Cam sounds stock and lifters are a little noisy, but hey, it does run. Makes maybe 250-275 crank hp? I'd really be surprised if it were any more.
What I'd like to do, at this point, is keep the engine alive a while, resolve the cooling issues, install a remote oil filter/cooler, and regear the rear-end (how about a 3.55?).
But, before I spend a bunch of money on SBF specific stuff, I'd like to consider all the other options. BBF, Boss 302/351, SBF. Power, streetability, resale value are all valid considerations.
At this point, money is reasonably tight, but I do believe you get what you pay for. A local engine builder, well thought of and equipped with a dyno (he does most of the race motors in our area), wants me to consider a 347 SBF with 3.125 bore and 3.25 stroke. A little different than the norm to be sure. He's quoted me $2800 for a Dart block, forged crank, rods, pistons, bearings, and etc, with another $2K for machine work, assembly, dyno, etc. Seems frank and honest, and comes well-recommended.
Have thought a Boss 302 type motor (Aussie 2v heads w/ closed chambers) with above short block 3.00 bore and 3.250 stroke (331 cid) would be an interesting combination.
Or maybe a 390 FE or stroked 351W?
In any case, would like an honest 375 rwhp and 350-380 ftlbs torque. Street driven with a 4 speed.
The floor is open. Any suggestions?