RodKnock There are a couple of other points I didn't have time to add. 1st If you go racing, some tracks will not allow a dry sump system. There reason is they don't want 12 quarts of
oil all over the track if a line breaks. You will need a vacuum pump also with the system to help control
oil mist and pressure in the motor. Vacuum pumps are go for another 10-30 hp. They help the rings seal better in the block. 2nd I have talked to many people and the leaking between the pump housing is not common. Make sure you add the screens in the lines to the inlets to protect the pump. Location of the tank is the other problem, some people put them in the trunk of the car and run 2 large lines to the front of the car. Some people mount the tank in the passenger foot well. 1 guy has his mounted behind the pass seat. I like the R/S fender idea BUT cutting up a $6,000.00 paint job has me with a problem. I have seen one cobra with this setup on speedvision couple of years ago. May have been a comp car, but was an FE motor. The problem with my car is the P/S pump is located where the dry sump pump will go. I can mount the P/S pump to the back of the Dry sump pump with an adapter from Aviaid. My crank trigger for the EFI system is also mount in this corner and is getting way to tight to fit everything. A wet sump system my be the answer. Saves the distributor from the 120 psi
oil pump stress when starting up and racing. I still think the dry sump is the way to go. I think they sell a heater for the oil tank you can plug in to help keep the oil a little thinner on startups. Tire warmers are next!!!
Rick Lake