Not Ranked
That isn't necessary---most drivability issues can be solved right in the base plate area---good fitting butterflies, properly blueprinted transfer slots--correct accerator pump setups, no vacume leaks,etc
The problem as you are representing it reminds me of others that I have seen that were set up and dialed in on dynoes---the carb guys build up a carb that should work well on the engine as spec'd---then the engine gets dynoed at 4500-7000 rpm with timing and jetting set up for max horsepower on dyno headers and RACE gas.
Then it gets installed into a car with different exhaust, an air cleaner, etc, and runs on PUMP gas at a much lower rpm and load.
Your problem is not that it dies as you come coast to a stop or turn a corner with the clutch in, but the fact that the engine WON"T idle with the clutch in without blipping the throttle. It doesn't need another carb, it just needs the carb you have and distributor to be set for a decent amount of driveability.
If your interested in more info, PM me and I'll give you an insight of a path to go down as I don't want to get into a carb contest here
Jerry
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