[Pete Munroe]

I have the same problem Snakebit has...and like to sit back from the steering wheel.

Where you set a pedal stop pretty much depends on if you adjust your pedals to be further back. I needed an easily adjustable stop as I was slowly working the pedal tops further back.

The clutch and brake pedals can be moved back quite a bit by cutting the master-cylinder actuating shafts in two and adding a "joiner" nut in the middle. This allows you to lengthen the shafts and rotate the pedals back toward the driver.

Eventually I ground out the floor board more and more with a burr and brought the pedal back much further...I think I picked up about an inch+ at the pedal top. Would have to go back and measure to be exact but lots...

Further rotation back would be too far over-center, but it is in the "sweet spot" for leverage for my height now...effective pressure is highest just a little beyond 12 o'clock.

Also, as the clutch linkage wears and settles in you can often pick up a notch or two on the clutch shaft splines and get less play in the pedal.

If you should ever suddenly lose a lot of clutch travel, check the shoulder bolt at the base of the pedal that keys the clutch pedal to the shaft...I have broken at least 2. Same for the accelerator pedal.

Haven't quite figured out how to move the accelerator pedal back without moving the pedestal back on the foot box...hard for me to get the pedal floored without really stretching. (Maybe a blessing in disguise).

Your Mac t/o bearing is the newer GOOD design with the machined 90 degree hose fittings...I have had no problem with it now in ~10,000+ miles. The old unit with banjo fittings was a disaster waiting to leak.

SSSammy makes a good point...you can't change it once its bolted up...real pain to pull the trans to change it.