Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Wells
how accurate is your temp gauge ?ie, , you said it ran hot but did not boil over . one school says if it doesnt puke, it is not hot .
what fan do you have and what year mustang ? 67 - 390 ?
on my 65 Mustang with .040 bored K code modified motor I have the stock radiator and hi-po shroud but added a 6 blade clutch fan - which really helped cool it down ( 4 blade was standard ) . On my 57 TBird i added a 6 blade clutch fan replacing a stock 4 blade and a large back up electric pusher fan with automatic thermostat - those old 312 Y block early birds all run hot, no longer runs hot.
the many Mustang parts suppliers offer a variety of high output aluminum radiators that are an easy bolt in - but I would not jump too quick before you determine if the engine is really running hot - and you can somewhat test /compare your gauge by buying or borrowing an infra red heat thermometer and shoot various engine areas to see what the temps really are . also, double your anti freeze to make sure it is fresh and at a 50/50 level - too much anti freeze will make it run hotter too . good luck . bill
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all of the above and I would add a few things to check........
1. do you have under drive pulleys????? If so, go back to stock pulleys, underdrive pulleys are for race use only......
2. 50/50 anti freeze and water....
3. you may want to drill 2 or 3 small holes in the flange of the thermostat for extra water flow, but before you go that route, get the car up to temp and then let it idle and remove the cap and see just how much water you have flowing........at idle it should come out the flues and inch or so, at fast idle on up, it should really shoot out a couple of inches, you'll see a big difference in flow....
on my street Mustang and race Mustang, I run the same thermostat and water pump, street car has stock pulleys, race car has underdrive pulleys, difference in flow at idle is like night and day, no comparison, race car rarely idles much, always running at speed, so it's not an issue.........
4. get a mechanical temp gauge, and check it in your house with the sender in a pot of water on the stove, you can check it to 212 degrees, once you determine if it is accurate, run the car and get it up to temp, remove the radiator cap and insert the sender into the radiator and see what the temp of the water is coming out of the engine going into the radiator..............this will tell you a lot.....
Had a buddy with on old big block Trans Am, factory gauge would peg out after some idling, checked the water temp in the radiator with a known good gauge and it never got over 195.......factory gauge was not accurate at all, he changed it and all was well in the world again............
good luck....
David