View Single Post
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2009, 07:56 PM
767Jockey's Avatar
767Jockey 767Jockey is offline
Senior Club Cobra Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary, FE, Tremec TKO 600
Posts: 1,987
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kitcarbp View Post
767- Great work on the brake lines, you have more patience then I. What I did to get rid of inferior connectors on my harness was to purchase GM type Weatherpak pigtails from PEP-BOYS. They sell 1, 2,3, and 4 pin male and female connectors separately with about 4 inches of wire. This way you just solder and heat shrink tube each connection and dont have to buy all the tools. Depends how many you need. If you need a bunch, better get a kit it will be most cost effective.
The only caution I would add is I dont remember the pig-tail wire gauge sizes so it may not be sufficient with high-beam headlamp current load, need to check that. The alternative as you stated is to buy the weatherpack kits on line and attach your own connector ends, you will need the correct crimp tool, and pin tool and a little more of that patience you have and you avoid the solder joint of the pigtails. There are a ton of kit suppliers on-line, easy to find. Enjoy.
I only need six of them. One three wire plug on each headlight and parking light, and a two wire plug on each tail light. I found the pin removal tool on Ebay for about $28.00, and the pin removal tool for about $7.00. The plugs themselves are cheap, they're about $5.00 each. I would like to use the plugs without pigtails but instead wired directly into the Weatherpack plugs because in the Contemporary the headlight and parking light leads are in the wheel wells with the tires spraying lots of water on them if I get caught out in the rain. I figure the seal will be better with the leads going directly to the plugs rather than with splices.

I was ale to get the darn brake lines done, at least for now. The front and rear lines are now all complete. Nick made me an absolutely beautiful dead nuts on to the original floor mounted pedal box. Once I mount the body and can mount the pedal box, I only have to run two lines from the front and rear master cylinders to the respective brass T fitting on the frame in the front and back. These should be very straight forward (famous last words, I know.......). On to the electrical! Hopefully the few of you who are reading this aren't bored silly by all this.......

Last edited by 767Jockey; 03-13-2009 at 07:59 PM..
Reply With Quote