Quote:
Originally Posted by efnfast
But no wash will remove all the imbedded atmospheric deposits (dirt yes, but not the imbedded stuff). Hence why you can store you car in a garage, never move it for a year, but wash and clay it a year later and the clay bar will be dirty. Not super dirty like a daily driver, but you're still going to pick up some crap because unless it's in a bubble, contaminents that you can't just wash off will adhere overtime.
I'm sure your paint is in good shape, but I'd be willing to bet $100 if you bring it out into direct sunlight (or use a tool like a sun gun) I can find micro-marring on the paint (such as RIDs and swirls). From your statement I'd be willing to also bet that your car is a lighter color, like a white/silver/yellow/light blue and not a darker on like red/black/dark blue)
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OMG.. you're RIGHT! I had a guy in a Corvette that pulled along side my car with one of those "sun guns" and said he'd seen some "micro-marring" on several places on my car!
You know darn well my car is lighter color... duh? Not trying to be argumentative but, why would all the top wax manufacturers and detailers use something that would make your finish look worse than it was? If you have "micro-marring" of the paint from a clay bar or anything else (minimized by use of lube), these are easily filled in with a proper wax afterward. The whole idea is to completely remove embedded contaminants which have a long term negative effect on paint vs micro-marring which is only a negligible visual imperfection. Are you saying this is all marketing hype and we shouldn't use clay bars or are you saying the same thing as me, that you need to do it properly. Here's a guy doing a whole fender on a M6 without folding the clay. I'd fold the clay four times in the same space but note the amount of lube.