I probably went too far but I threaded the block for pipe thread . I installed a brass fitting (male pipe to compession coupling). Then the top tube was made from a quick release pin so I'd have enough wall thichness to incorporate an O-ring groove for the bell on an OEM dipstick. I had the dipstick brazed at the bell to make sure there was no movement or leakage. Then I had everything chromed and polished. Everything was adjusted prior to finishing to the correct length so it would match the original. Dipstick fits tight and the system doesn't leak at the block ,coupling or at the top of the tube where the dipstick with bell fitts. I to was never confident in the OEM push in setup. They allways seemed to to leak a little or a lot. I went on a search at some local car collections and noticed that there were more than one version od the dipsick some are higher some are more forward . As I remember some were bent some came out the oilpan and so on. So when shopping around you need to find a setup that fits your need and work out the kinks. I wanted to get high enough to make it convient and away from the header. It isn't fun grabbimg a hot dipstick. Also you want the tube to be high enough that you can see the tube as atarget for reinserting the actual dipstick. I filed small V notches into the side of the dipstick at the indicater points,ground the end inti a point with a rounded end so the dipstick would go in more easily. When dipstick was finished I lightly sand plasted the surface of the dipstick where the levels were indicated so the glare from the
oil level could better be seen. Some times when youre reinserting the dipstick and the lighting isn't all that great You may have to form your hand around the tub and use your hand as a guide to get it in the hole. Putting your hand next to a hot header or down low isn't that great .