[Michael C Henry]

It's me again. I have 3.56 Jag rear gear, Ford toploader 4spd. McLeod aluminum flywheel now with 12" heatsheild installed. I have the three fingered long style pressure plate. I have a 427 FE sideoiler engine with a Comp Cams solid lifter cam 262° .610" lift. Shell lifters and tubular pushrods. Dove rolller rockers. Dove alluminum Canadain Super CobraJet heads. Dove 2 x4 alluminum tunnel wedge intake manifold with 2- 600 cfm Holley carbruetors. 11 1/2 comp ratio bestpump, gas 92 octane and an additive. I' haven't noticed any slipping once in gear and under way. My problem is the normal starting from a stop and negotiating things where you go slow and perhaps uphill. I don't turn the throttle up that much or that often. I also Have Mallory HyFire VI boxs rev limiter programed for 6,000 rpm limit. I beleive I can exced that 450 hp mark if I raise the rev limit and remove the S&H aircleaners. Parking garage ramps are a killer. Heck! I park in in my garage at home, I have to get up a two inch difference to get into my garage, through a narrow door and then I pull the front tires up on a pair of wooden ramps and stop before rolling off the far side. This stuff is killing this clutch. I'm not Launching a missle. I haven"t been on a dyno yet, no drag strip passes and no track time. I can't remember ever being into the throttle enough that I felt the secondaries open . It's trying to drive as a normal person . I don't spin the tires as a rule (I'm buying them myself). I don't need any unwanted attention from authotities. I expect the slipping the clutch to wear the clutch disk but not this much.
I had everything adjusted sitting in the garage last weekend . We decided to drive to Ocean Shores Saturday morning and spend the night. I pretty much was a good boy. No driving off the road or anything like that. No racing from light to light and only turned it up a little while out in the open. Once home and cooled down, I checked and the free travel and it was inpreceivable, but not tight against the forks but no rattle either.

McLeods Tech reccamendation was their 100 series They show eight torsional isolator springs but not reccamend it for over 450 hp. The getting it to replace is the main thing. What ever I do, It will have to have longevity. It's not as simple as most clutches to get to.. the order of parts goes drive line remove, shifter handle remove, disconnect transmission but can't remove it just stuff it over cross member and as far to rear as possible, and start removing bottom of scattersheild. I have to remove throw out fork and bearing. If just replacing clutch disc I may be able to leave the major part of the scattersheild and remove the presure plate and clutch disc out the bottom verry time consuming.