I post this here because it, simply said, fit under the threads theme....
As someone may have read elsewhere, I have been really frustrated on the behaviour of my 347 stroker with 48 IDF.
This weekend I went to a meeting some 200 km away. The night before I had done some adjustments to the engine. After readin a post in this forum I adjusted all my idel srews out 1 1/4" turn after listning to someone saying "1 turn maximum. If not enough, too small jets." Cruising along it drank 1,8 L/ 10 km and i noticed som popping at around 2- 3000 rpm....
As I started my car on saturday morning to go down to the display-erea, my carbs were popping alot.
This made me wonder: This cannot be haow it's supposed to be. Let's make another approach, as learned by reading Ceslow's writings:
http://www.gt40s.com/images/howto/Ly...carburetor.pdf
I used my fingers and tapped each header tube; 6 were warm (Ok, I got a small firewound at one of my fingers...) last two stone cold. Fiddled the two idle screws and whhops: One of themm needed yet one more turn out before things started to happen The other one needed 1/2 a turn inward....
What happened then? Popping stopped, drive "home" was pleasant.
"Home" this sunday was on Gardermoen Raceway & Autograss/ free riding.
When testing the car on full throttle, I was totally paralyzed......
Not in the engine's history have it run that well. I took it to
8200 RPM, and Mother Mary and Joseph; what a wonderful sound that motor made... Not to mention the power (although not that "physical" with non- sticky road tires...) Cannot wait to go racing this weekend.
I now will tune the idle with an IR thermometer and do one header tube/ cylinder/ carburator throat/ idle screw at a time.
As it's hard to get a correct A/F reading at idle, my question is like this: Is there such a thing as a temperature- area that will be correct for a "reasonable" (a little bit rich as it gives some cooling?) idle- AF? (Headers are 15/8" and wrapped.)
Any input greatly appreciated.
RuneS.